Tuesday, October 27

a different ballgame

The football game I attended was fun. Loud, energy-filled, like nothing I’d ever seen. The basketball game Vlad took me to last week was different. Very different. We arrived in the middle of the first quarter, and my pen was nearly confiscated until Vlad sweet-talked the security guard: something about me being a stupid American, I’m sure. The arena was quite compact—everything and everyone felt so close. It probably helped that we had seats close in, and actually stood at court level. The roar of the audience was positively deafening. When a Spanish player from Malaga stood at the free-throw line the crowd whistled with the intensity of a jet engine. I honestly was wishing for earplugs.

Bata, as I’ve come to know Vladimir’s younger brother, explained some of the local traditions to me. Thankfully, judging by the size and intensity of some of the spectators, alcohol is banned in basketball venues too. The songs and chants coming from the black and white-dawning Partizan fans, Bata continued, had more to do with politics and party affiliation than sports. He related the story about how he once arrived at a Partizan vs. Red Star (the other Belgrade team) game, mindlessly wearing a red and white tee-shirt. After the threats and curses thrown upon him, he remained in his Partizan-surrounded seat, continuing to apologize for his lack of sense, watching the game shirtless to avoid any incidents.

Standing on court level, my view was hampered by my short legs. Still, as we were just about 5m from the basket, I was able to catch a few plays. Eventually we moved enough that there were no longer any tall Serbian spectators blocking my view, and that made all the difference. Regardless, the deafening sound of the crowd followed wherever we stood, punctuated by drums and visually assisted by the waving of giant flags. I will try to post a video at some point soon, and perhaps some audio to accompany this entry.

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